Why would anyone mod an Adaptical Tactical TK22 Takedown Stock to fit a KAK Shockwave Blade brace? My first answer is “Why not”? But the real reason is a bit more complicated. I’ve often described the Ruger 22 Charger as the “Universal platform” for the 10/22 enthusiast. Because you can build it as a pistol or rifle (in most states). My personal Charger Takedown has gone through more changes than Caitlyn Jenner, but has come out much better looking. Although it worked okay as a pistol, I really wanted to add a brace, as that gives it a lot more stability, and utility.
But why not a stock?
*In the United States, we have some interesting firearms regulations. By definition, a “rifle” is intended to be fired from the shoulder. And it must have a barrel no less than 16″ long. If you want a shorter barrel, and your state allows it, you can pay for a $200 tax stamp, and ask the government for permission. And then wait months to get approval for your SBR (Short barrel rifle).Â A “pistol” on the other hand, is intended to be fired while held in one hand. Adding a stock to a pistol would allow it to be fired from the shoulder, which complicates things in the eyes of the law. Legally, it’s pretty much the same as cutting down a rifle barrel at that point. Which is where the brace comes in.
Adding a brace allows for stability similar to a stock when firing. There is no requirement to use the brace as a brace. It can be used to get a cheek weld. It should not be used as a stock, since that would change the definition of your firearm from a pistol to a rifle (actually, SBR). Although the ATF has stated that they won’t go after someone for inadvertently shouldering a brace, please don’t plan your build with the intention of shouldering a brace. If you want an SBR, pay the tax, and follow the laws. If you want a brace on your pistol, follow the law as well, and spend the $200 you saved on ammo or accessories. I prefer the latter.
Why Adaptive Tactical?
If it had been the polymer version from the factory, this wouldn’t have been too difficult. But mine started life with the laminate furniture. There are options to add a brace to the laminate stock, but they are pricey. And then I’d have a mix of flat black and green laminate. What I really wanted was all black polymer. Picking up a Ruger stock set would cost $60-80. Add $45-60 for the adapter. Then a buffer tube and castle nut. The $35 Blade was something I already had lying around. Together, they would get the job done. But there would also be multiple extra points of potential failure.
Since I already had an Adaptive Tactical Tac-Hammer barrel/rail combo, I checked their site. While they have a nice takedown stock set for the Charger, there is no provision for a brace. Then I noticed their TK22 Takedown StockÂ set for the rifle. It includes an adjustable stock, which fits the molded-in buffer tube. Hmmm. A quick email to them, and they confirmed that the buffer would work with other stocks, or the SB Tactical brace. But I wanted to go simple, which meant a KAK Shockwave Blade. So I asked if I could modify one to fit the KAK. They replied that of course I could try. Then I suggested they provide one for an article, and they agreed. How cool is that?
The TK Takedown Stock set
This stock set has quite a few useful features, at a reasonable price. There’s a barrel insert for standard taper barrels. Remove the insert, and you’ve got a channel for your .920 barrel. Although mine was shipped without one, it comes with an M-4 style adjustable stock, which is pretty nice. The stock includes a recoil pad and some sling attachment points. If you’re not cutting it up to fit the original KAK Blade, you can swap if for your favorite stock too. Of course, if you have the Blade 2.0, skip the whole part about cutting up the buffer tube. It should fit without any modification. But what’s the fun in that?
Although the pistol grip is not replaceable, it feels good in the hand. Not as slim feeling as a standard AR grip, but with a nice shape. And it does allow use of the optional TacTREDâ„¢ monopod. While not everyone is going to be a fan of all the curves and angled cuts in this stock set, it fits my hands well. I’ll probably lightly scuff the whole thing with fine sandpaper, to even out the matte finish and remove some shinier spots. That, and smooth the edges where the two parts mate. But overall, it’s nicely finished from the factory. I’m just a little fussy.
Anyone with basic hand tools can install this stock set in a few minutes. Before I started cutting anything, I figured it would be a good idea to test fit the stock set. I removed the barrel insert, and went to drop my barrel in. Well, it’s a very precise fit. I’m undecided about doing any sanding yet, because it fits and comes apart fine. I’m just not sure if it’s going to affect the accuracy of a 10″ .920 barrel. If it does, I’ll relieve it a bit so there is no extra tension on the barrel. The rear section fit perfect. Neither too loose, nor too tight. No rattles here. Looks good too. Note that it doesn’t come with hardware, so don’t lose your factory screws.
I took some quick measurements, to see how much I needed to remove from the molded-in buffer tube. Then I put some blue painter’s tape there as a guide. At first, I was planning on using my belt sander to take off the material. But my wife bought me a new scroll saw last year, and that seemed ideal. So I taped one side of the stock with heavy duct tape to prevent scratches. And then I threw it down on the saw and went to work. In all, it was probably less than 90 seconds to cut off the extra material. A few minutes with a wire brush, and it was ready for the Blade.
Installation, take two
Everything went back together just as it did the first time. As both the stock and Blade are molded polymer, there are faint lines from the molds. All I had to do was line them up along the top of the stock and KAK Blade, and I was set. There is a hex head bolt in the blade, which I tightened down on the buffer tube portion of the stock. Done! It feels very solid, and again, there are no rattles. The cordless screwdriver is for initial tightening (and removing of screws). Final tightening is always done with a Wheel F.A.T. wrench.
With the Tac-Hammer barrel, this was already a very accurate pistol. Accuracy was somewhat hampered by the lack of an easy two-handed grip though. So off the bench, it was fine. But this Charger was made for plinking cans and ringing steel, outdoors. And now I can really see what it’s capable of. Here in Utah, it’s been too cold to shoot outdoors, so look for a follow-up article, once I’ve taken it out to 50 yards or so. And I’ll see if the barrel channel causes any issues too. In the meantime, if you have any questions or comments, feel free to share them below.
I’d like to thank Adaptive Tactical for providing their TK22 Takedown Stock for this article, as well as their continued support of recreational shooting sports. To see more of their innovative products, or locate a dealer, please visit their website.
*I’m not an attorney, and nothing on this page should be taken as legal advice. The above explanation was provided as a brief introduction into the ATF rulings on pistol braces. Note also that this information is subject to change at any time. It is up to the individual to be familiar with local, state, and federal firearms laws. What is legal in one locale may not be the next state over. So do your research before you start your build.
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